Boony Doon Winery Goes Biodynamic

Up Boony Doon road into the Santa Cruz mountains, the picturesque chalet that houses the Boony Doon tasting room is the only business you’ll stumble upon. It’s hard to believe that this quaint little cottage is the official storefront of the once high-volume wine producer. But then again, the modesty of the building matches the philosophy of the company, which scaled back production by 90% to become a boutique biodynamic winery.

What is Biodynamic?

Google biodynamic wine and a slew of sources will explain the method. The short answer is that biodynamic farming involves agricultural self-sufficiency, using a mix of science and mysticism to aid the process. When you apply this philosophy to viticulture, it means employing drip irrigation techniques, and relying on rain and fog to keep grapes hydrated and moisten the soil. For farmers it can mean coordinating sowing and harvesting times with the cycles of the moon. Some critics note an improvement of the strength and flavor of wines made using biodynamic grapes.

Boony Doon’s break from big business into the world of sustainable winemaking meant saying goodbye to some longtime favorites. The Vin de Glacia, a crisp white port with hints of pear is no more. Making the ice wine required the energy-rich process of freezing grapes while still on the vine to concentrate sugars. Proprietor Randall Grahm knew he couldn’t discontinue the Vin de Glacia without providing an ample replacement, thus the Viognier Doux was born. This sweet Viognier adapts traditional techniques used to make vin de palle—French for straw wine—whereby the ripest grapes are left to concentrate in the sun for 12 days after harvesting. The result is similar to a vin de glace, but requires much less energy. It is worth noting that Vin de palle originated in the Mediterranean, which has a climate similar to California.

Other notable wines include the 2006 Ca’ del Solo Abarino, a green wine with citrus undertones; and the Ca’ del Solo Sangiovese, a smoky layering of cassis, chocolate and cherries.

Links

http://www.boonydoonvineyard.com/

Another blogger’s thoughts on Boon Doon Biodynamics

www.goodwineunder20.blogspot.com/2007/01/wine-blogging-wednesday-29-bonny-doon.html

An NPR piece on Biodynamic Wine

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5725850

Here’s what Food and Wine Magazine has to say

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/biodynamics-the-next-trend

Boony Doon wines made using the 100% biodynamic grapes bear unique labels like the ones shown above. These designs feature a single drop of wine magnified under a microscope to highlight the uniqueness and complexity of each wine.

The move towards artistic packaging is part Boony Doon’s new business model. Each wine bears a distinct and thoughtful design. The label for the Viognier Doux is shown to the right.